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In China, the “Great American” Burger Now Features Australian Beef


Geng Xiaoyun, the owner of Kunyuan restaurant in Beijing, can no longer serve his popular dish of salt-baked chicken feet, or “phoenix talons,” due to a 30% price increase caused by tariffs on American imports. Geng emphasizes the superior taste and texture of American chicken feet over alternatives from Brazil and Russia, but he now keeps a small supply for personal use and hopes to offer them again if prices decrease amid stable global political conditions.

The temporary tariff ceasefire established in May is under threat, with each country accusing the other of breaching terms. The Chinese Commerce Ministry responded to President Trump’s allegations of violations by referencing recent U.S. export controls on artificial intelligence chips, arguing these actions undermine the agreement.

As uncertainty looms, American agricultural products have largely disappeared from Chinese markets and eateries, increasingly replaced by imports from other countries. For example, Home Plate, a restaurant known for its American barbecue, has replaced its American beef with Australian beef following the tariffs. Australian beef benefits from zero duties under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, although there are safeguard limits on imports.

Liu Li, a long-time beef supplier at Sanyuanli market, noted the tariffs have led to a 50% price hike for U.S. beef. He lamented the situation, stating that American beef is valued for its flavor and fat content. With rising costs making American meats less accessible, the ongoing trade war continues to impact both consumers and restaurant offerings in China.

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